Hot Tub Pump Troubleshooting Guide

Hot Tub Pump Troubleshooting Guide

Please Note – The information contained in this article is provided as a courtesy to our customers and online subscribers.  Any use of the information contained in this article is AT YOUR OWN RISK!

PUMP TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

 

Pumps – The Heart of Your Hot Tub System

When it comes to hot tub systems, no piece of equipment works harder or is depended on more than your pump.

Pumps are responsible for water circulation throughout your tub and the entire system. Pumps draw water from the hot tub and pushes it through the heater and filter and back out through the jets.

This is just one part of a multi-step process to rid the water of impurities before it’s sent back to the hot tub. Most pumps also have a strainer or leaf trap that catches small debris that makes it through the skimmer or main drain.  Pumps capture the debris which eases the burden placed on the filter and leaves it free to catch other pollutants in the water.

The best way to keep your hot tub water clean is to keep it circulating and today’s modern pumps and equipment automates the process to such an extent that it requires very little time and attention from hot tub and spa owners.

Simply program the system to automatically turn the pump on for a set amount of time each day long enough to filter your water thoroughly. That’s all there is to it!

Self-Priming Pumps – Most pumps are self-priming centrifugal pumps. These pumps have a vacuum chamber, commonly known as a pump housing. The pump housing must be filled with water in order for any pump to create a vacuum, resulting in your pump pulling the water out of your spa.

The pump housing will remain full of water while the pump is on and will remain partially full of water when the pump is shut off.  When you turn on the pump the motor will begin to rotate on high speed, even if you have a dual speed pump.

The motor drives the pump impeller, located inside the pumps center portion at the opposite end away from the electrical switch portion of the motor.

While the motor is rotating, the tips of the impeller are sealed hydraulically inside of the pump diffuser, this allows self-priming to occur.

Your pump must have a diffuser in order for self-priming to take place. Some pumps have separate diffusers, while others have the diffuser molded into the pumps cover.
Self-priming pumps are very dependable and simple in design.

They require a sufficient supply of water from the hot tub with no air in the suction lines. Air can get into the lines in a variety of ways.  It could come from a loose strainer cover, a leaky valve, a pin hole in the suction line, a crack in your pipes or loose piping connections.

Your pump should be kept free of dirt and located in an area that’s protected from flooding during heavy rain fall. Very few pumps are successfully repaired once the pump motor becomes flooded.

Why Hot Tub Temperatures Max Out at 104 Degrees

Many people question why their spa will only heat to 104 ºF. Throughout history public bathing was done at higher temperatures. Even today, in Japan, many public bath houses have water up to 115 ºF.

Hot tubs & spas in the United States, Canada and most parts of the world have been regulated to obtain a maximum temperature of 104 ºF since 1980. On Dec 31, 1979, the Consumer Products Safety Commission, CSPC, released advisory #79-071.

The advisory warned that heat strokes could be caused by water temperatures of 106 °F or higher. The CSPC recommended a maximum temperature of 104°F for both public and private hot tubs and spas.

The advisory was adopted by Underwriters Laboratory (UL) and lists it in their controlling document (#UL 1563) for home spas, equipment assemblies and associated equipment. The relevant portion of this document as it pertains to max temp regulations for home tubs and spas is section 32; Temperature Regulating Controls…

32.1 – A unit shall be provided with a water temperature regulating control that has a maximum set point of 40 °C (104 °F) in the tub.

32.2 – The temperature regulating control shall be adjustable and shall have marked settings, but it shall not have any settings marked hotter than 40 °C (104 °F).

32.3 – A digital temperature regulating control that displays the selected temperature, but no higher than 40 °C (104 °F), may additionally display the actual temperature of the water.

UL has strongly advised that any hot tub or spa manufacturer that produces a control, or modifies a standard control, to exceed 104 °F is in violation of their UL listing and can have their listing pulled by UL.

The actual 1980 CSPC cover letter that accompanied advisory #79-071 is listed below:

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission Warns of Hot Tub Temperatures
Release # 79-071
December 31, 1979

WASHINGTON, D.C. (December 31, 1979) — Safety officials frequently warn the public about the dangers of drinking and driving. Now the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is cautioning that drinking and hot tubing do not mix well either.

According to CPSC staffers, the use of hot tubs at water temperatures above the normal body temperatures can cause drowsiness which may lead to unconsciousness and subsequently result in drowning.

The risk of drowning is significantly heightened if individuals consume alcoholic beverages while, or prior to, soaking in hot water, CPSC staff warns. The Commission has been informed of 10 deaths recorded so far in 1979, three of which involved alcohol-related drowning in hot tubs heated to approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit.

Even if no alcohol is consumed, extremely hot water during hot tub use can threaten life, CPSC reports. Soaking in a hot tub with water heated to 106 degrees Fahrenheit, for example, can raise human body temperature to the point of heat stroke (or impairment of the body’s ability to regulate its internal temperature). These conditions can be fatal even to fully healthy adults.

Hot tub sales in the U.S. have increased about 125 percent in the past two years, from approximately 40,000 tubs sold in 1977 to approximately 90,000 sold this year. Based on industry projections, CPSC estimates that sales could climb as high as 135,000 tubs next year, a 50 per cent increase over 1979 sales.

As hot tubs have gained in popularity throughout the nation, so have concerns at CPSC that consumers learn how to use these products safely. Accordingly, CPSC staff strongly urges consumers to observe the following safety rules for hot tub use.

Safety Rules For Hot Tubs

  • Hot tub water temperatures should never exceed 104 degrees Fahrenheit. A temperature of 100 degrees is considered safe for a healthy adult. Special caution is suggested for young children.
  • Excessive drinking during hot tub use can cause drowsiness which could lead to unconsciousness and subsequently result in drowning.
  • Pregnant women beware! Soaking in water above 102 degrees Fahrenheit can cause fetal damage during the first three months of pregnancy (resulting in the birth of a brain damaged or deformed child). Pregnant women should stick to the 100-degree maximum rule.
  • Before entering the hot tub, users should check the water temperature with an accurate thermometer; hot tub thermostats may err in in regulating water temperatures by as much as four degrees.
  • Persons with medical history of heart disease, circulatory problems, and diabetes or blood pressure problems should obtain their physician’s advice before using hot tubs.
  • Persons taking medications which induce drowsiness, such as tranquilizers, anti-histamines or anti-coagulants, should not use hot tubs.

CPSC staff currently is working with staff from the Spa and Tub Association ( a division of the National Swimming Pool Institute) and the International Spa and Tub Institute (both of Santa Ana, California) as they develop voluntary safety standards for the manufacture, installation, and use of hot tubs. These standards, which are expected to reflect many of the above safety warnings, may take effect as soon as spring, 1980.

 

 

Filter Cartridge Cleaning Process

Cleaning Instructions for Unicel Spa Filter Cartridges

Filter Cartridge Cleaning Process

1.    Remove the cartridge from the filter housing following the manufacturer’s instructions.

2.    Use a garden hose with a straight flow nozzle to wash down the filter element. Work from the bottom down, holding the nozzle at a 45-degree angle, and wash all the pleats with emphasis between pleats.

3.    Rinse until all dirt and debris is gone.

4.    For all spa cartridges and elements used in swimming pools where perspiration, suntan lotions, and other oils are present, soak the element for at least one hour (over night is most effective) in (1) a filter cleaner; or (2) one cup tri-sodium phosphate (tsp.) to five gallons of water.

5.    Rinse the cartridge again to remove oils and cleaning solution.

6.    If the filter has a coating of algae, calcium carbonate (residue from the calcium hypochlorite), iron or other minerals, soak the cartridge in a solution of one part muriatic acid to twenty parts water until all bubbling stops.

*WARNING: failure to remove all oils and cleaning solution before acid soaking will result in a permanent restriction of water flow and cause premature cartridge failure.

7.    Rinse the cartridge clean and reassemble housing.

Please Note: Unicel does not recommend the use of diatomaceous earth (DE) with cartridge filters. DE particles can become trapped in the body of the media and shorten cartridge life. If desired, a cellulose fiber (synthetic DE) can be used in moderation.

Baquacil as a Sanitizer

If you use baquacil as a sanitizer, the filter element must be cleaned with Baqua Clean before any cleaner is used.

Unlike chlorine, which oxidizes the bacteria in the water, the active ingredient in Baquacil, polyhexamethylene biqunaide or PHMB, destroys the bacterial cells. PHMB locates and binds to the bacterial surfaces, and then attacks the outer bacterial wall.

Once this wall has been compromised, the inner cell membrane, or cytoplasm membrane, is destroyed. This destruction allows the cell contents to disperse into their surroundings where they are further broken down into their elemental parts by Baqua Shock, a non-chlorine oxidizer.

In addition, Baquacil is a mild coagulant, which combines bacterial cells and other small particles in the environment into particles large enough to be trapped by the filter.

The resulting deposit is a gray sticky film on the media, which can only be removed with Baqua Clean. If trisodium phosphate (TSP) or any TSP type cleaner is used prior to stripping the film, the cleaner and the gray film will combine to form a gum-like substance.

Once this occurs, the substance cannot be removed from the media and the filter cartridge must be replaced.

WARNING: Follow all manufacturers’ instructions, warnings and precautions when using Baquacil, Baqua Shocks and/or Baqua Clean.

Hot Tub Equipment Location & Layout

Hot tub and equipment layout

The equipment included in our standard Hot Tub system will take up an area that’s approximately 4’ Long by 2’ Wide.  If you add a gas heater, then your footprint can increase to 5’ long by 3’ wide.  If there are walls or an enclosure around the equipment, then the footprint could increase to accommodate aspects of the equipment and its accessibility and venting.

 

The Hot tub equipment can be located just about anywhere as long as you comply with local and national Code requirements. National safety codes require the equipment is minimally 6’ away from the tub.  The equipment can’t be closer to the tub unless separated by a permanent barrier.  Local codes vary and it is your responsibility to find out and comply with whatever the local code mandates.  The vast majority prefer to locate the equipment further away than 6’.

 

Ultimately where and how far away to locate the equipment from you hot tub is up to you but taking the following factors into consideration will greatly enhance your overall Hot Tub experience.

 

  • If tub and equipment are further than 6’ away from each other, the 1.5” PVC plumbing should be upsized to 2” PVC. If the distance is greater than 50’, the pump and PVC plumbing may need to be upsized again, to ensure pump performance and jet pressure are appropriate.
  • If the gas heater is more than 5’ below the water line, you may need to have a flow switch installed to keep the heater from operating when the pumps turns off.
  • If your pump is located above the water line of the hot tub, it can lose its prime causing water recirculation to stop and result in damage to the pump. Please let us know so we can ensure we can provide you the corrected special fittings to ensure losing prime will not happen.
  • If the equipment is more than 20’ away from the tub, insulating the PVC plumbing will help reduce heat loss through the pipe.
  • Gas heaters require certain combustible clearances above and around them to ensure proper safe operation and access for maintenance. If indoors, the heater may also need additional Kits for exhaust and air intake.  Please let us know if this applies to your application so we can help ensure you have the correct information and Kits for your project.
  • The filter requires minimum vertical clearance above it to allow for removal of the filter element for maintenance. Please let us know in advance if this is a problem so we can provide you with options for smaller or shorter filters requiring less vertical clearances.

 

Images of equipment and layout

Below are some pictures of different equipment and layout using electric or gas heating systems with related dimensions to help you lay out the equipment for your application.  How your equipment lays out is ultimately up to you, but please don’t forget that all equipment needs occasional maintenance or repairs which will take less time and expense if access to do so is easier.

 

Layout #1 – ACC controller with 5.5kW electric heater, Topside control, Pentair pump & 75 sqft filter, ionizer and Ball (Blue handle) or Slice (T handle) valves.  Dimensions:  4’L x 2’W x 3’H

 

Layout #2 – ACC controller with Gas Heater, Topside control, pump, filter, ionizer and Ball (Blue handle) or Slice (T handle) valves.

Dimensions:  4’L x 4’W x 3’H

Layout #2.1

Dimensions:  8’L x 2’W x 3’H

 

Layout #3ECO Tub System below – ACC controller with 5.5kW electric heater, Topside control, Rhtubs pump, 50 sqft filter, ionizer and Ball (Blue handle) or Slice (T handle) valves.

 

Dimensions:  42”L x 18”W x 24”H

Hot Tub & Spa Cover Measuring Guide

To measure your Hot tub or Spa, always measure the top of your Spa and not your previous cover. Old foam covers tend to shrink or expand over time due to the different conditions they have been under. Please make sure to provide measurements in inches not in feet.

 

For measuring your corner radius you will want to use either a framing ruler or two regular rulers to get this dimension. Using one of the two options you will need to measure where the spa begins to curve as shown in the pictures below.

 

Please make sure that all of your corners have the same radius to assure that the new cover will fit.

 

 

For kidney bean or other odd shapes we may require you to make a template. Please follow the following instructions to make a template.

One of the best materials for hot tub owners to use in making a template is a piece of clear plastic. Clear plastic painting drop cloths work great and are relatively inexpensive.

 

1. Carefully stretch the plastic across the hot tub or spa, making sure it’s taut with no wrinkles. Using thumb tacks or tape hold the plastic securely in place.

2. With an indelible sharpie marker, carefully trace the outline of the desired cover. Remember, the cover will be made to the shape you trace and we’ll straighten out any waviness in the lines! DO NOT trace the opening of the spa, or the cover will fit inside the spa!

For in-ground/concrete spas, the cover should overlap the edge of the spa at least 2″. Any more overlap will lessen the chance of the cover falling into the spa when being put back on.

3. Draw a dotted line to indicate the direction and approximate location of the fold. We’ll center the fold on covers that are up to 8′ across. Larger covers will be in two pieces, with each piece folding in half.

4. While the plastic is still stretched across the spa, write your name, phone number and “This is the TOP” on the top surface of the plastic, so we’ll know which side is up and to avoid any confusion over what side is the top and what side is the bottom of your cover.

5. If you only want a partial skirt, please indicate its location and length. If you don’t want a skirt or the skirt encompasses the entire perimeter of the spa cover, this can be omitted from the template.

6. Indicate the location of any handles and the location and length of any tie-downs.

After we receive your hot tub or spa cover template, we’ll create a CAD drawing and email it to your for revisions and approval.

If you know that your spa will require a template, please email us at customercare1@rhtubs.com for more details.

 

Insulating Hot Tub Cover Specs, Features & Benefits

A high quality hot tub spa insulating cover can pay for itself in as little as 6 months? These covers, designed for strength, durability and longevity are constructed of the finest materials available.

The inner core of our Premium Insulating Covers covers are 1.5 lb. density, metal reinforced EPS foam & tapered from 4″ to 2″ to allow accumulated water to easily run off.

Many older, and some cheap covers are made of a flat foam (or foam with less taper) which tends to allow water to puddle, causing the cover to sag, allowing more water to puddle, eventually breaking the cover.

Foam density refers to the weight of a cubic foot of foam.  A 1.5 lb. density is generally the ideal for a 4″ thick cover. It has excellent strength and insulating ability, yet is light enough to maneuver on and off your spa. Lesser densities are NOT advised for a cover of this thickness due to it’s lack of strength.

Our 6″ thick, 1lb. density cover provides almost 50% more insulation value over a 4″ cover.  It’s stronger than a 4″ cover, yet weighs the same. Higher foam densities have additional strength, but only slightly more insulating ability.

One of the many options we offer our customers is upgrading to a higher density foam when additional strength is needed.  It’s perfect for areas with heavy snowfall, rambunctious children, large dogs and even deer.

The foam is wrapped in a 6 mil polyethylene sheeting that is heat sealed to prevent water absorption. Many cheaper cover manufacturers tape the poly sheeting closed to save costs, but the tape quickly fails and the cover will start absorbing water, getting heavier and heavier. As an option, the foam can be doubled wrapped for extra protection from water absorption.

The outer covering is a certified heavy duty marine grade vinyl which is highly mildew and UV resistant. It was initially developed as an awning material for the boating industry. It’s available in your choice of different colors and is sewn together with a highly UV inhibited commercial thread which won’t mildew or rot out like some cheaper covers.

There’s even reinforced handles for easy removal from your hot tub or spa and it comes with four straps so you can easily lock the cover down.

Features & Benefits of Our Premium Insulating Covers

 

1. Locking, Side-Release Tie-Down Straps

Each cover comes standard with four tie-downs equipped with locking child resistant safety latches. To assure the integrity and prevent the straps from ripping out (perhaps from high winds), the straps are sewn into the cover in four places, including the skirt. This makes them virtually tear-proof.

Besides aiding in keeping out unwanted visitors, the tie-downs, when properly used help to prevent strong winds from blowing off the cover. There is also the option of additional tie-downs.

The “locking latches” are molded after the quick release buckles found on sports equipment and have been specifically designed for spas! Each NMF Fastener may be locked down individually. They are quickly installed with three stainless steel screws (provided).

2. High Quality Zippers & Strong Polyester Thread

The zippers are one of the lesser important parts of a cover. However if anyone ever steps on your cover causing the foam to bow you’ll want to remove and turn over the inner foam core.

For this reason we only use zippers designed to maintain their “zipping” ability for years.. Besides having the largest teeth available (6mm), they’re rust and chemical corrosion proof. We quadruple stitch them for added strength.

With the entire cover being double stitched together, the thread is also an important aspect to consider (some cover manufacturers heat seal their vinyl together, but the seams tend to become very brittle in the hot sun and freezing cold).
The thread used in our covers is a 93#, UV resistant, bonded, Dacron Polyester thread.

The polyester part is what’s important, unlike cotton thread (or cotton wound polyester) it won’t rot out in a short period of time, and the UV resistance prevents any degradation from the sun.

“Bonded” means that it’s actually water tight and can’t absorb mildew causing moisture. The 93# is the weight of the thread and the entire cover is completely double stitched.

3. Tough, Marine-Grade Vinyl Available in Your Choice of Colors

With a weight of 30oz. (per lineal yard), the vinyl of these covers is the heaviest available. It also exceeds the specifications of “Marine Grade Vinyl”, and “Premium Grade Vinyl”.
Marine Grade Vinyl was developed for the harsh climates of boating and the awning industry.

To be classified as a marine grade, the vinyl has to meet certain requirements (whether these requirements are exceeded or not is another story). The vinyl used in our covers exceed all specified requirements of both “Marine Grade Vinyl”, and “Premium
Grade Vinyl”!

Unlike some covers where the vinyl cover is heat sealed together, another important feature of these covers is that they are completely double sewn together with the highest quality thread. Heat sealed seams become very brittle in the hot sun and freezing cold.

The vinyl in our covers are the thickest in the industry and include mildew inhibitors, UV stabilized coloring to prevent fading, increased resistance to chlorine and bromine and are available in 10 different colors . Please see chart below.

In addition, the vinyl’s backing fabric on our covers is reinforced, 100% polyester mesh. Unlike cotton backing, our backing will not rot, is mildew resistant and has exceptional strength compared to cotton backing.

4. Gusseted, Double Stitched Skirt in a Variety of Lengths

The skirt of a cover is another of the many important parts. It needs to properly protect the lip of your spa from the damaging rays of the sun, and be strong enough to use for lifting your cover.

These cover’s skirts are double stitched into the cover for strength, and gusseted to provide the best protection! One piece continuous skirts, which are easier to manufacture, have many inherent problems as compared to skirts that are gusseted (also called “slited”).

Gusseted skirts will hang much straighter and have less tendency to bunch-up under the cover, preventing a proper seal between the cover and the spa.

As the sun beats down on a cover, extreme heat can build up between the skirt and the outer lip of the spa. This intense heat can actually damage the outer lip of the spa.

 

A gusseted skirt allows this heat to escape, preventing heat damage from occurring.

The skirts are double sewn into the cover for extra strength and strong enough to lift even the heaviest of covers.

5. Strong, Reinforced Handles for Opening & Closing the Cover

Unlike the handles on many covers which tend to be a great weak point, these spa cover handles have been designed and engineered to be one of the strongest! Handles are great when the cover is new, but over a long period of time most covers eventually get a bit heavier.

Cover handles, having such a small attachment area can be easily torn off, sometimes tearing the cover. Our cover’s handles are made of extremely strong, 1-1/2″ wide nylon webbing. Additional stitching, and internal reinforcing make them some of the strongest available. One of the many options offered, is to have the nylon handles vinyl covered.

6. 2.5″ Wide, 20 Gauge Galvanized Steel C-Channel Support Beam

Running the entire length of each piece of foam, along the hinge is a 2.6″ wide, 20 gauge galvanized steel C-channel support beam. This is the heaviest gauge (thickest) reinforcement beam used in the industry, others tend to be 22 to 26 gauge.

Galvanized steel is used for it’s increases strength over aluminum, and also because of it’s greater resistance to chemicals (chlorine and bromine). C-channel is much stronger than lesser expensive T-bar others may use.

If the possibility of this C-channel rusting has been made a concern to you, it really shouldn’t be. The only way for this C-channel to rust is if the vapor barrier surrounding the foam is broken. If this happens the foam core of a cover will absorb water (getting heavier and heavier) long before the C-channel loses any integrity.

7. Polyethylene Vapor Barrier on EPS Foam Cores (Optional Double Wrap)

One of the many important features of an insulating cover is the vapor barrier surrounding the foam. The barrier used in our covers is a 6 mil. single-extruded, virgin bead, polyethylene sheeting. This extra thick sheeting is heat sealed around the foam core.

As an added feature the sheeting is vacuumed of air during the sealing process. This prevents the cover from “bloating” from any trapped air expanding, when the sun beats down on it. Many cheaper cover manufacturers tape the poly sheeting closed to save costs, but eventually the tape fails and the cover will start absorbing water, getting heavier and heavier.

One of the options offered on these covers is to double wrap the foam core with a second layer of polyethylene sheeting. This is something no other manufacturer offers and we highly recommend it due to the following.

Covers have a small hole on the bottom side of the vinyl covering to allow any accumulated water and condensation to drain out. As much as this is an absolute necessity, it also allows evaporating chemicals to rise up into the covers interior (needless to say covers with an open mesh bottom are the worst).

Over a long period of time these chemicals can start deteriorating the vapor barrier to a point where it becomes porous. The porosity then allows steam and evaporating water to penetrate into the foam insulating cores.

One day science will probably develop a better vapor barrier (although those wanting to sell lots of covers may not use it), but until then doubling up the polyethylene sheeting will extend the life of your cover.

8. 4″ x 2″ Tapered, 1.5 lb. density, or 6″ x 4″ Tapered, 1 lb. density virgin-bead expanded polystyrene (EPS) foam core.

The covers foam core is the “back bone” of every spa cover. Not only is it the main insulating factor, it also provides the strength needed for years of use. One of the important features of our foam is that it’s a virgin foam, rather than recycled. While both may have the same insulating value, recycled foam doesn’t have nearly the strength as the virgin foam we use.

The foam core of our Premium Covers are a 1.5 pound density, metal reinforced, EPS (expanded polystyrene) foam , tapered from 4″ to 2″.

The taper is necessary to allow accumulated water to easily run off. Many older, and some cheap covers are made of a flat foam which will allow water to puddle,causing the cover to sag, allowing more water to puddle, eventually breaking the cover.

Please note, these measurements are the true measurement of the foam itself. It is not a nominal measurement, nor does it include the thickness of the vinyl or vapor wrap (you’d be surprised how many others don’t use a “true” measurement, and add in thickness of the other materials used).

Foam density refers to the weight of a cubic foot of foam. A 1.5 lb. density is generally the ideal for a 4″ thick cover. It has excellent strength and insulating ability, yet is light enough to maneuver on and off your spa. Lesser densities are NOT advised for a cover of this thickness due to their lack of strength.

The insulating core of almost all spa covers is EPS (Expanded Polystyrene). The insulating value of this product is very specific, and is listed in the table below. Please note, the R-value shown is for 1 inch of thickness.

Foam Density           R-Value/in.
1.0 lb.                          3.85
1.25 lb.                           4.0
1.5  lb.                         4.17
2.0  lb.                         4.35

All EPS foam of equal density has the same R-value!

R-Value – R-Value describes a material’s resistance to the flow of heat. The higher the R-value, the slower heat will travel or conduct through a material. Better insulating materials tend to have better R-values.

Heat Flows by the Following Three Mechanisms:

1. Conduction
2. Convection
3. Radiation

Conduction Conduction is the molecule-to-molecule transfer of kinetic energy where one molecule becomes energized and energizes adjacent molecules. A cast-iron skillet handle heats up because of conduction through the metal.

Convection – Convection is the transfer of heat by physically moving the molecules from one place to another. Hot air rises; heated water thermo siphons; forced-air heating systems work by moving hot air from one place to another.

Radiation – Radiation is the transfer of heat through space via electromagnetic waves aka radiant energy. A campfire can warm you even if there is wind between you and the fire, because radiation is not affected by air.

By definition, R-Values measure an insulation’s ability to resist heat loss by Conduction and conduction only. This measurement is why R-Values can be misleading. Hot tub and spa heat rises from the water by convection and radiation and heats the underside of your cover.

The heat then moves through your hot tub/spa cover by conduction. Increasing the covers R-Value reduces or slows the rate of conduction. There are also two ways to reduce the rate of convection, the first being a floating blanket and the second being our optional exclusive Reflex Energy Shield used on the underside of covers.

The FTC requires certain industries and products to undergo extensive independent laboratory testing to define their R-Values and manufacturers can’t influence tests one way or the other. What you see is what you get.

The Hot Tub & Spa industry IS NOT REQUIRED to undergo extensive independent laboratory testing to determine R-value nor are hot tub and spa covers. R-value testing is done on a more subjective basis and values can be artificially inflated by simply lowering or increasing the temperature during the test.

We are not required to follow the same testing procedures as mandated by the FTC, but Roberts Hot Tubs and RHTubs.com does in order to give our customers fair and accurate decision making information.

When comparing the real R-value of hot tub and spa covers, it’s important to ask your dealer what temperature difference the R-value was calculated at. Our hot tub and spa cover testing are all calculated using a value of R-14 at 40 Degrees.

9. Multiple Layered, Quadruple Reinforced Hinge

The hinge is one of the most worked parts of a cover, and on cheap covers one of the first things to deteriorate thereby letting steam and heat escape. First of all, our covers do have a hinge (they’re not simply two half covers sewn together), the hinge is constructed of the same high quality vinyl as the rest of the covers covering. Our hinge is also four layers thick and is quadruple stitched for the longest life available.

With the current trend of cover lifting devises (which we highly believe in) the hinge is one of the most worked parts of a cover.

This hinge is constructed of the same high quality vinyl as the rest of the outer cover. It is not simply two halves of the cover sewn together, but is a one piece hinge, double stitched into each half of the cover.

One of the options available is additionally reinforcing the hinge by adding an extra layer consisting of the same 1-1/2″ wide nylon webbing the handles are made from. This upgrade consists of a strip of nylon webbing running the entire length of the hinge! While other covers hinges are their weakest point, this nylon webbing reinforcement makes these hinges the absolute strongest possible!

10. Continuous Hinge Seal

These covers have a continuous insulated “hinge seal” to prevent heat from escaping from an area most people don’t even think about. Most other covers have what are called “fingers” or “steam sealers” (below).

These are two pads that are placed on the underside of the cover, at the ends, between the two halves to prevent steam and heat from escaping when the cover is installed on your spa.

If you turn one of these covers upside-down you’ll actually see that they also push the two insulating halves apart (below), leaving as large as a one inch gap between the two halves. This is equal to having a hole the size of a basket ball in your cover, your INSULATING cover!

Exceeds ASTM Standards for Spa Cover Safety

ASTM, the American Society of Testing and Materials, has developed a standard for both pool and Spa Covers. This Standard, ASTM F 1346-91, establishes three separate cover classifications;

1. Power Safety Covers, typically found on swimming pools
2. Manual Safety Covers, such as the spa insulating covers and
3. Other Covers, which do not serve as a barrier for children under the age of five and do not qualify as a safety cover.

In order for a spa cover to meet the requirements for a “Manual Safety Spa Cover” it must meet certain requirements which include performance tests and labeling requirements.

Covers must be able to pass tests such as Static Load Tests for weight support, Perimeter Deflection Tests for entry or entrapment between the cover and the side of the spa and Surface Drainage Tests to see if a dangerous amount of rain could collect on the covers surface.

There are also requirements that include labeling in consumer information, warranties and on the cover itself. Labeling must contain the proper warnings and identify the product as a safety cover.

INSULATING HOT TUB COVER 3 YEAR WARRANTY

Roberts Hot Tubs warrants Premium Insulating Covers to the original end user, to be free from defects in material and workmanship, under normal usage for a period of 3 years or 36 months from the date of delivery to the original end user.

This limited warranty does not cover damages caused by animals, fire, vandalism, excessive chemicals, improper installation, strain, abuse or abrasion, acts of God or uses for purposes other than that for which the cover was intended. Ordinary wear and tear, delimitation and seam splitting due to improper handling are not considered to be a defect in workmanship or material.

Covers with 1.5 lb. & 2.0 lb. density foam are covered for three (3) years. Covers with 1.0 lb. density foam are covered for one (1) year. Warranties for insulating cover foam cores are void if any holes have punctured or penetrated the outer covering or the inner seal.

Any expressed or implied warranty is limited in duration to three (3) years or 36 months from the date of delivery to the original end-user. Roberts Hot Tubs shall not be liable for any incidental or consequential damages.

Any insulating cover deemed by Roberts Hot Tubs to have failed due to defects in materials or workmanship within 3 years or 36 months from date of purchase will be repaired or replaced, at our option, without charge for materials or labor excluding cost of freight.

Warranty Does Not Cover Improper Use or Any of the Following

• Insulating cover has been subjected to alteration, misuse or abuse. If any repairs are attempted on the cover by anyone other than our authorized representatives, the warranty is void.
• Foam breakage or tearing of vinyl if cover has been walked on, stood on or been subjected to excessive weight caused by rain, water, snow, animals or any acts of God etc…
• Damage due to excessive use of chemicals or contact with other chemicals on the cover material. This includes the use of Armor-all and other petroleum based products.
• Fading of vinyl and thread is not considered a defect and will naturally occur due to normal maintenance and exposure to the elements.
• Scuffing, Chafing or wearing holes in cover by dragging or storing against sharp objects.
• Damage caused by improper installation or during transportation from the dealer to purchaser.
• Damage resulting from misuse, abuse, negligence, acts of God, accident or alteration. This includes cover lifts, animals, excessive weight and the elements.

To Obtain Warranty Service

Contact dealer or seller to obtain instructions on where to present the defective cover along with the serial number on the cover. In most cases, RHTubs only requires pictures of the cover and cover damage to make the determination as to whether or not the warranty applies, but some cases require inspections.

• Purchaser is responsible for the return of the insulating cover and all shipping charges, to and from the place Roberts Hot Tubs originally delivered it.
• Roberts Hot Tubs will repair or replace, at their discretion, any defects if they determine that the cover qualifies for warranty coverage.

Implied Warranties: The only warranties are set herein and any implied warranties, including the warranties of merchant-ability and fitness for a particular purchase, are limited in duration to that of the expressed warranties. This warranty does not cover consequential damages or incidental damages including damage to property or injury arising from the use or inability to use this product. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of consequential or incidental damages, so the above limitation may not apply to you.

            Our Contact Information is Listed Below for Your Convenience

Roberts Hot Tubs | 2343 Welcome Ave. | Richmond, CA. 94804
Toll Free 800-735-5290 | Fax 510-234-7910 | customercare1@rhtubs.com

FREE SHIPPING OF ALL INSULATING HOT TUB COVERS TO ANYWHERE IN THE CONTIGUOUS UNITED STATES ! ALL STANDARD PREMIUM INSULATING COVERS UP TO 96″ (8 feet) START AT ONLY $319.95 INCLUDING FREE DELIVERY !

WE ALSO OFFER SPA COVERS UP TO 108″ LONG AND SPECIAL SWIM SPA COVERS UP TO 16′!

Proper Care, Storage & Shelf Life of Reagents

Reagents that are stored properly maintain have a much longer shelf life and maintain their maximum effectiveness than those that are improperly stored. This includes all reagents including liquids, powders, crystals, tablets and test-strips.

Reagents should not be stored in moist or damp areas and should be kept dry and moisture free at all times. Powders, crystals and acids are very stable and have an excellent shelf life if kept dry and aren’t exposed to sunlight.

The date of manufacture is not the controlling factor when it comes to reagent shelf life; the storage conditions are much more important. As with all perishables, reagents are sensitive to environmental influences and will last longer under controlled conditions.

Taylor Technologies Recommends the Following Care for Reagents

Storing reagents at a consistent temperature in the range of 36°–85°F (2°–29°C). Dramatic temperature fluctuations, such as being stored near a refrigerator or in the trunk of a hot car, causes reagents to rapidly deteriorate.

Avoid exposing reagents to prolonged direct sunlight. Most manufacturers use brown plastic bottles to help protect light sensitive reagents for this very reason, but prolonged overexposure to direct sunlight will quickly deteriorate any reagents effectiveness.

Keep reagents separate from other non-reagent water treatment chemicals.

Replacing reagent caps immediately after use and tighten them carefully to limit their exposure to air and humidity.

Don’t switch reagent bottle caps. Placing bottle caps on soiled surfaces, re-pouring reagents into possibly contaminated containers and touching test strip pads can easily contaminate reagents.

The experts at Taylor formulate their reagents to remain fully effective for a minimum of one year, with very few exceptions.

As a general precaution and rule of thumb, you should replace any reagents that are more than one year old or at the beginning of each new testing season.

Wood Warranty

3 Year manufacturer warranty on all wooden products:

Roberts Hot Tubs warrants our wood products to the original end user, to be free from defects in material and workmanship, under normal usage, for a period of 3 years (36 months) from the date of manufacturing to the original end user. Such limited warranty does not cover damages caused by animals, fire, vandalism, excessive chemicals, improper installation and strain, abuse or abrasion, acts of God or use for purposes other than that for which the product was designed. Ordinary wear and tear, and improper installation are not considered to be a defect in workmanship or material. Any expressed or implied warranty is limited in duration to 3 years (36 months) from the date of manufacturing to the original end user. Roberts Hot Tubs shall not be liable for any incidental or consequential damages.

Any wood product deemed by Roberts Hot Tubs to have failed due to defects in materials or workmanship within 3 years (36 months) from date of purchase will be repaired or replaced, at our option, without charge for materials or labor (excludes cost of freight FOB Richmond, CA).

WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER IMPROPER USE OR ANY OF THE FOLLOWING:
•    Wood product has been subjected to alteration, misuse, abuse, or if any repairs on the product are attempted by anyone other than our authorized representatives, unless express written approval is given.
•    Damage due to excessive use of chemicals of water or contact with other chemicals on the material (this includes the use of stain and other wood treatment products).
•    Fading of wood is not considered a defect and will naturally occur due to normal exposure to the elements and aging.
•    Damage caused by improper installation or during transportation from the dealer to purchaser.
•    Any damage resulting from any misuse, abuse, negligence, acts of God, accident or alteration, (i.e. cover lifts, animals and excessive weight or wind).

Implied Warranties: The only express warranties are set herein and any implied warranties, including the warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purchase, are limited in duration to that of the expressed warranties. This warranty does not cover consequential damages or incidental damages including damage to property or injury arising for the use or inability to use this product. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of consequential of incidental damages, so the above limitation may not apply to you.  ​