Hot Tub Ionizers
Nobody enjoys soaking in a dirty or unhealthy hot tub and owners go to great lengths to ensure an enjoyable and relaxing soaking experience in water that’s as clean, safe and healthy as possible.
How do we get our tub and spa water as clean and safe as possible? Simple, by adding chemical sanitizers, pH balancers, oxidizers, clarifiers, calcium boosters, metal removers, water softeners, enzymes and algaecides etc…
If you’re tired of trying to relax in a tub full of chemicals and want to drastically reduce your use of costly chemicals by 80% – 90%, then the Hot Tub Ionizer is the system for you.
In all cases, Ionization is safer and more forgiving than typical chemical treatments. Ionizers provide softer, gentler water and a more comfortable environment.
It’s much less expensive than chemical treatments and it will increase the life expectancy of everything around the hot tub. That includes bathing suits, pumps, filters, heaters and the rest of your spa equipment.
The Hot Tub Ionizer will save you time and money every year as well as provide you with the following benefits:
Benefits:
• Low Initial Cost
• Superior Water Quality
• Reduces Chemical Use by 80-90 %.
• Lifetime Warranty
• Adds Years of Life to Spa Covers & Equipment
• Reduced Maintenance
• No More Algae Problems
• No More Red Itchy Eyes
• No More Dried Out Skin
• Simple to Install & Operate
• Weatherproofed for Outdoor Installation
How Do Ionizers Work?
Ionizers use a natural water purification process called electrolysis. It starts with an ultra-low voltage charge running through a sacrificial mineral electrode installed in the return line.
This direct current causes the release of copper and zinc ions into the flow of water which aids in the destruction of algae, bacteria, viruses and mold.
To maintain clean, clear, safe and healthy water all you need to do is add a small amount of chlorine or non chlorine shock to your hot tub after each use to kill any organic material in your hot tub.
Why try to relax in a tub full of harsh expensive chemicals when a soothing hot spring-like hot tub experience is just an Ionizer away!
What’s So Different About Our Hot Tub Ionizer?
Our electrodes are custom made from a copper and zinc alloy specifically designed for water treatment. They are four times larger than most spa ionizers, so our electrodes last longer and the replacement electrodes are a better value.
What About Passive Cartridge Ionizers like Nature 2?
You should not use cartridge ionizers. Not only are they very expensive and need to be replaced every few months, you also have little or no control as to the amount of ionization being produced.
Cartridge Ionizers are sold without test kits so you never know what the ion level is or if it’s safe to reduce the sanitizer level. Hands down, the best and most cost effective method of ionizing a hot tub is with an electronic ionizer.
Please note that all hot tub ionizers are created equally. Beware of copper only ionizers with electrodes and a control box that may look like our Hot Tub Ionizer, but are nothing more than cheap knock-offs made from outdated electronics.
Features of our Hot Tub Ionizer include:
• Treats up to 1,200 Gallons
• Adjustable Output for Precise Metering of Ion Production.
• IP66 Rated Weatherproof Controller Protects Electronics from Moisture, Corrosion, and Harsh Environments.
• High Efficiency UL, CSA, and CE listed Auto Ranging (120 or 240 volt) Switching Power Supply which provides 5 volts DC to the controller (must be wired to the pump timer so it has power only when the pump is running.)
• Solid State Electronic Circuitry with Automatic Sequential Polarity Switching to keep Electrodes Clean and Even Wearing.
• Light Emitting Diodes Display Power, Cell Power, and Polarity.
• Has Threaded Electrode Cell with a 2″ Tee Fitting, Sealed Electrical Connections so there are No Corrosion Problems, and 1-1/2″ Reducing Bushings if Needed.
• Lifetime Warranty.
Specifications
• INPUT VOLTAGE: 120 or 240 Volts AC.
• INPUT FREQUENCY: 50 to 60 Hertz
• OUTPUT VOLTAGE: 5 VoltsDC
• OUTPUT CURRENT: 2 Amps. Max
• CONTROLLER: Plastic Weather Proof
• FLOW RATE: 10 To 120 GPM
• CELL: 2″ Tee with Extention and 2″Threaded Fitting
• CELL REPLACEMENT: 2″ Threaded Male Fitting
• ELECTRODE SIZE AND TYPE: 1-1/2″ Half Round x 2-1/2″ LONG – COPPER & ZINC
• ELECTRODE WEIGHT: 1.5 LB
• TYPICAL ELECTRODE LIFE: 8 To 20 Years
• CAPACITY: UP TO 1,200 Gallons
Hot Tub Ionizer Operation
1. Turn on the Hot Tub pump.
2. Test the Hot Tub water and make sure the water is properly balanced and sanitized. Test the water with the copper test kit to see if there is copper already present. If copper is already present it may be from a copper based algaecide or from a previous pH problem.
3. Turn the controller output to MAX. The power light and the cell power light should come on. The cell power light will change color from red to green every few minutes to indicate the cleaning circuit is operating properly. Turning the control down towards MIN decreases the voltage and current to the cell. The Cell Power light will dim slightly as the control is turned down.
4. Now you can stop using heavy sanitizer levels! All you need to do is maintain a constant chlorine level as low as 0.2 pp. It has been proven that maintaining 0.2 ppm chlorine and 0.2 ppm copper is more effective sanitation than using just chlorine at 2.0 ppm.
5. Test the copper level at least once a week until you have found the proper setting for your spa. Now you should only need to test the copper level once or twice a month because the copper level does not dissipate like sanitizers.
6. Do not over ionize your spa. When the level reaches 0.3 ppm turn the control down and adjust as necessary to maintain 0.3 ppm. If the copper level reaches 0.5 ppm turn the ionizer to MIN until the level drops to 0.3 ppm. Maintain the pH at 7.2 to 7.6. Failure to maintain your pH could result in staining if the pH is allowed to drift above 8.0.
Hot Tub Ionizer Installation
1. Before installing the Ionizer the Hot Tub should be clean, pH balanced, sanitized and the filter cleaned.
2. Turn off the power to the spa equipment.
3. Install the cell after the hot tub heater if possible. The electrode cell must be at the bottom or side so that no air will be trapped in the cell. Cut a section of pipe out where the electrode cell will be installed. Glue the TEE in place using PVC glue making sure it is oriented so no air will be trapped in the cell.
4. Mount the Controller on a vertical surface at least 5 ft from the Hot Tub. Fasten with the 4 #6 x 3/4′ screws provided, so that the cord to the cell and the power cord will reach. It is best to install the controller where it is protected from the sun and weather.
5. Wire the ionizer controller into the same circuit as the low speed of the pump (some spa controllers have a circuit designated for “ozone”, which can also be used). If connected to 120 volts the brown wire is the hot wire, the blue wire is the neutral wire, and the green wire is the ground. If connected to 240 volts the brown and blue are the hot wires and the green is the ground. The ionizer controller automatically adjusts to the incoming voltage.