Filter Cartridge Cleaning Process

Cleaning Instructions for Unicel Spa Filter Cartridges

Filter Cartridge Cleaning Process

1.    Remove the cartridge from the filter housing following the manufacturer’s instructions.

2.    Use a garden hose with a straight flow nozzle to wash down the filter element. Work from the bottom down, holding the nozzle at a 45-degree angle, and wash all the pleats with emphasis between pleats.

3.    Rinse until all dirt and debris is gone.

4.    For all spa cartridges and elements used in swimming pools where perspiration, suntan lotions, and other oils are present, soak the element for at least one hour (over night is most effective) in (1) a filter cleaner; or (2) one cup tri-sodium phosphate (tsp.) to five gallons of water.

5.    Rinse the cartridge again to remove oils and cleaning solution.

6.    If the filter has a coating of algae, calcium carbonate (residue from the calcium hypochlorite), iron or other minerals, soak the cartridge in a solution of one part muriatic acid to twenty parts water until all bubbling stops.

*WARNING: failure to remove all oils and cleaning solution before acid soaking will result in a permanent restriction of water flow and cause premature cartridge failure.

7.    Rinse the cartridge clean and reassemble housing.

Please Note: Unicel does not recommend the use of diatomaceous earth (DE) with cartridge filters. DE particles can become trapped in the body of the media and shorten cartridge life. If desired, a cellulose fiber (synthetic DE) can be used in moderation.

Baquacil as a Sanitizer

If you use baquacil as a sanitizer, the filter element must be cleaned with Baqua Clean before any cleaner is used.

Unlike chlorine, which oxidizes the bacteria in the water, the active ingredient in Baquacil, polyhexamethylene biqunaide or PHMB, destroys the bacterial cells. PHMB locates and binds to the bacterial surfaces, and then attacks the outer bacterial wall.

Once this wall has been compromised, the inner cell membrane, or cytoplasm membrane, is destroyed. This destruction allows the cell contents to disperse into their surroundings where they are further broken down into their elemental parts by Baqua Shock, a non-chlorine oxidizer.

In addition, Baquacil is a mild coagulant, which combines bacterial cells and other small particles in the environment into particles large enough to be trapped by the filter.

The resulting deposit is a gray sticky film on the media, which can only be removed with Baqua Clean. If trisodium phosphate (TSP) or any TSP type cleaner is used prior to stripping the film, the cleaner and the gray film will combine to form a gum-like substance.

Once this occurs, the substance cannot be removed from the media and the filter cartridge must be replaced.

WARNING: Follow all manufacturers’ instructions, warnings and precautions when using Baquacil, Baqua Shocks and/or Baqua Clean.

Proper Care, Storage & Shelf Life of Reagents

Reagents that are stored properly maintain have a much longer shelf life and maintain their maximum effectiveness than those that are improperly stored. This includes all reagents including liquids, powders, crystals, tablets and test-strips.

Reagents should not be stored in moist or damp areas and should be kept dry and moisture free at all times. Powders, crystals and acids are very stable and have an excellent shelf life if kept dry and aren’t exposed to sunlight.

The date of manufacture is not the controlling factor when it comes to reagent shelf life; the storage conditions are much more important. As with all perishables, reagents are sensitive to environmental influences and will last longer under controlled conditions.

Taylor Technologies Recommends the Following Care for Reagents

Storing reagents at a consistent temperature in the range of 36°–85°F (2°–29°C). Dramatic temperature fluctuations, such as being stored near a refrigerator or in the trunk of a hot car, causes reagents to rapidly deteriorate.

Avoid exposing reagents to prolonged direct sunlight. Most manufacturers use brown plastic bottles to help protect light sensitive reagents for this very reason, but prolonged overexposure to direct sunlight will quickly deteriorate any reagents effectiveness.

Keep reagents separate from other non-reagent water treatment chemicals.

Replacing reagent caps immediately after use and tighten them carefully to limit their exposure to air and humidity.

Don’t switch reagent bottle caps. Placing bottle caps on soiled surfaces, re-pouring reagents into possibly contaminated containers and touching test strip pads can easily contaminate reagents.

The experts at Taylor formulate their reagents to remain fully effective for a minimum of one year, with very few exceptions.

As a general precaution and rule of thumb, you should replace any reagents that are more than one year old or at the beginning of each new testing season.

Hot Tub Ionizers

Hot Tub Ionizers

Nobody enjoys soaking in a dirty or unhealthy hot tub and owners go to great lengths to ensure an enjoyable and relaxing soaking experience in water that’s as clean, safe and healthy as possible.

How do we get our tub and spa water as clean and safe as possible? Simple, by adding chemical sanitizers, pH balancers, oxidizers, clarifiers, calcium boosters, metal removers, water softeners, enzymes and algaecides etc…

If you’re tired of trying to relax in a tub full of chemicals and want to drastically reduce your use of costly chemicals by 80% – 90%, then the Hot Tub Ionizer is the system for you.

In all cases, Ionization is safer and more forgiving than typical chemical treatments.  Ionizers provide softer, gentler water and a more comfortable environment.

It’s much less expensive than chemical treatments and it will increase the life expectancy of everything around the hot tub. That includes bathing suits, pumps, filters, heaters and the rest of your spa equipment.

The Hot Tub Ionizer will save you time and money every year as well as provide you with the following benefits:

Benefits:

• Low Initial Cost
• Superior Water Quality
• Reduces Chemical Use by 80-90 %.
• Lifetime Warranty
• Adds Years of Life to Spa Covers & Equipment
• Reduced Maintenance
• No More Algae Problems
• No More Red Itchy Eyes
• No More Dried Out Skin
• Simple to Install & Operate
• Weatherproofed for Outdoor Installation

How Do Ionizers Work?

Ionizers use a natural water purification process called electrolysis. It starts with an ultra-low voltage charge running through a sacrificial mineral electrode installed in the return line.

This direct current causes the release of copper and zinc ions into the flow of water which aids in the destruction of algae, bacteria, viruses and mold.

To maintain clean, clear, safe and healthy water all you need to do is add a small amount of chlorine or non chlorine shock to your hot tub after each use to kill any organic material in your hot tub.

Why try to relax in a tub full of harsh expensive chemicals when a soothing hot spring-like hot tub experience is just an Ionizer away!

What’s So Different About Our Hot Tub Ionizer?

Our electrodes are custom made from a copper and zinc alloy specifically designed for water treatment. They are four times larger than most spa ionizers, so our electrodes last longer and the replacement electrodes are a better value.

What About Passive Cartridge Ionizers like Nature 2?

You should not use cartridge ionizers. Not only are they very expensive and need to be replaced every few months, you also have little or no control as to the amount of ionization being produced.

Cartridge Ionizers are sold without test kits so you never know what the ion level is or if it’s safe to reduce the sanitizer level. Hands down, the best and most cost effective method of ionizing a hot tub is with an electronic ionizer.

Please note that all hot tub ionizers are created equally. Beware of copper only ionizers with electrodes and a control box that may look like our Hot Tub Ionizer, but are nothing more than cheap knock-offs made from outdated electronics.

Features of our Hot Tub Ionizer include:

• Treats up to 1,200 Gallons
• Adjustable Output for Precise Metering of Ion Production.
• IP66 Rated Weatherproof Controller Protects Electronics from Moisture, Corrosion, and Harsh Environments.
• High Efficiency UL, CSA, and CE listed Auto Ranging (120 or 240 volt) Switching Power Supply which provides 5 volts DC to the controller (must be wired to the pump timer so it has power only when the pump is running.)
• Solid State Electronic Circuitry with Automatic Sequential Polarity Switching to keep Electrodes Clean and Even Wearing.
• Light Emitting Diodes Display Power, Cell Power, and Polarity.
• Has Threaded Electrode Cell with a 2″ Tee Fitting, Sealed Electrical Connections so there are No Corrosion Problems, and 1-1/2″ Reducing Bushings if Needed.
• Lifetime Warranty.

Specifications

• INPUT VOLTAGE: 120 or 240 Volts AC.
• INPUT FREQUENCY: 50 to 60 Hertz
• OUTPUT VOLTAGE: 5 VoltsDC
• OUTPUT CURRENT: 2 Amps. Max
• CONTROLLER: Plastic Weather Proof
• FLOW RATE: 10 To 120 GPM
• CELL: 2″ Tee with Extention and 2″Threaded Fitting
• CELL REPLACEMENT: 2″ Threaded Male Fitting
• ELECTRODE SIZE AND TYPE: 1-1/2″ Half Round x 2-1/2″ LONG – COPPER & ZINC
• ELECTRODE WEIGHT: 1.5 LB
• TYPICAL ELECTRODE LIFE: 8 To 20 Years
• CAPACITY: UP TO 1,200 Gallons

Hot Tub Ionizer Operation

1. Turn on the Hot Tub pump.
2. Test the Hot Tub water and make sure the water is properly balanced and sanitized. Test the water with the copper test kit to see if there is copper already present. If copper is already present it may be from a copper based algaecide or from a previous pH problem.
3. Turn the controller output to MAX. The power light and the cell power light should come on. The cell power light will change color from red to green every few minutes to indicate the cleaning circuit is operating properly. Turning the control down towards MIN decreases the voltage and current to the cell. The Cell Power light will dim slightly as the control is turned down.
4. Now you can stop using heavy sanitizer levels! All you need to do is maintain a constant chlorine level as low as 0.2 pp. It has been proven that maintaining 0.2 ppm chlorine and 0.2 ppm copper is more effective sanitation than using just chlorine at 2.0 ppm.
5. Test the copper level at least once a week until you have found the proper setting for your spa. Now you should only need to test the copper level once or twice a month because the copper level does not dissipate like sanitizers.
6. Do not over ionize your spa. When the level reaches 0.3 ppm turn the control down and adjust as necessary to maintain 0.3 ppm. If the copper level reaches 0.5 ppm turn the ionizer to MIN until the level drops to 0.3 ppm. Maintain the pH at 7.2 to 7.6. Failure to maintain your pH could result in staining if the pH is allowed to drift above 8.0.

Hot Tub Ionizer Installation

1. Before installing the Ionizer the Hot Tub should be clean, pH balanced, sanitized and the filter cleaned.
2. Turn off the power to the spa equipment.
3. Install the cell after the hot tub heater if possible. The electrode cell must be at the bottom or side so that no air will be trapped in the cell. Cut a section of pipe out where the electrode cell will be installed. Glue the TEE in place using PVC glue making sure it is oriented so no air will be trapped in the cell.
4. Mount the Controller on a vertical surface at least 5 ft from the Hot Tub. Fasten with the 4 #6 x 3/4′ screws provided, so that the cord to the cell and the power cord will reach. It is best to install the controller where it is protected from the sun and weather.
5. Wire the ionizer controller into the same circuit as the low speed of the pump (some spa controllers have a circuit designated for “ozone”, which can also be used).  If connected to 120 volts the brown wire is the hot wire, the blue wire is the neutral wire, and the green wire is the ground. If connected to 240 volts the brown and blue are the hot wires and the green is the ground. The ionizer controller automatically adjusts to the incoming voltage.

Non-Chlorine Shock Treatments

Non-Chlorine Shock

For years, hot tub and spa owners have been keeping their water crystal clear by “Shocking” it on a weekly basis with Chlorine or Bromine.

Shocking your hot tub or spa quickly raises the sanitizer level of the spa water, killing off any of the bacteria that may be present.

Unwanted bacteria in spa water can cause skin irritation, rashes, odors and cloudy water. The down side of “shocking” your hot tub or spa with chlorine is that it leaves a strong chlorine-like chemical odor, causes skin and eye irritation and can wreak cause bathing suits and hot tub covers to prematurely fade.

The folks at DuPont have come up with a great alternative product called Potassium Monopersulfate or more commonly referred to as “Non-Chlorine Shock.”

The benefits of Potassium Monopersulfate is that it is easy and convenient to use, it maximizes your existing sanitizer efficiency of Chlorine or Bromine by killing and eliminating contaminating waste and it doesn’t produce irritating and foul smelling chemical odors.

It restores sparkle and clarity to dull water and doesn’t bleach or fade bathing suits or spa covers. It also assists with the bacteria killing, with no unwanted side effects.
Potassium Monopersulfate is a powerful, odorless oxygen-based versatile oxidizer that works in conjunction with chlorine, bromine and most alternative sanitizing systems including ozone.

Sanitizers are used in hot tubs and spas to protect soakers and bathers from harmful pathogens, but sanitizing alone is not enough.  Soaker and bather waste, along with external factors, contribute to the buildup of organic contamination, especially in residential hot tubs and spas.

Two people in an average hot tub holding 250-350 gallons of water is equivalent to 200 people in a 20,000 gallon swimming pool! Regular oxidation is necessary to eliminate these contaminants and promote maximum sanitizer efficiency and water clarity.

Potassium Monopersulfate is ideal for oxidizing spa water because it reacts very quickly to eliminate bather waste, increases existing sanitizer efficiency, enhances water clarity and soaker comfort. It also eliminates the need to shock the spa with heavy chlorine-based products which cause foul odors, skin and eye irritation and prematurely fades clothing.

Chlorine Only Shocks also have a few other significant drawbacks. When used in heavy doses, chlorine can react with contaminants in hot tub water to produce foul smelling and irritating combined chlorine compounds called chloramines.

Chloramines can be simple compounds like monochloramine or they can be complex like the organic chloramines. Organic chloramines actually resist oxidation by free chlorine and persist long after chlorine shocking.

Chlorine shocking also raises chlorine residuals, which are not wanted in a brominated hot tub or spa. This can be a real problem if your hot tub is inside, where air circulation is a problem.

One of the big reasons that people use bromine as their main sanitizer is to reduce the chemical odor, both in the water and in the indoor air around the unit. Potassium Monopersulfate will not cause these unwanted odors when used on a weekly shock.

When used properly, it eliminates chloramines, ammoniated compounds, oils, soaps, perspiration, urine and odors as well as enhances the disinfection and sanitation of your hot tub by regenerating some of the existing chlorine and most of the bromine in the water.

*Please Note that Potassium Monopersulfate should not be used during the initial fill up of your hot tub or spa. It is not a disinfectant when used alone and a normal level of sanitizer must already be present in the water for Potassium Monopersulfate to react correctly.