Hot Tub Ionizers
Nobody enjoys soaking in a dirty or unhealthy hot tub and owners go to great lengths to ensure an enjoyable and relaxing soaking experience in water that’s as clean, safe and healthy as possible.
How do we get our tub and spa water as clean and safe as possible? Simple, by adding chemical sanitizers, pH balancers, oxidizers, clarifiers, calcium boosters, metal removers, water softeners, enzymes and algaecides etc…
If you’re tired of trying to relax in a tub full of chemicals and want to drastically reduce your use of costly chemicals by 80% – 90%, then the Hot Tub Ionizer is the system for you.
In all cases, Ionization is safer and more forgiving than typical chemical treatments. Ionizers provide softer, gentler water and a more comfortable environment.
It’s much less expensive than chemical treatments and it will increase the life expectancy of everything around the hot tub. That includes bathing suits, pumps, filters, heaters and the rest of your spa equipment.
The Hot Tub Ionizer will save you time and money every year as well as provide you with the following benefits:
• Low Initial Cost
• Superior Water Quality
• Reduces Chemical Use by 80-90 %.
• Lifetime Warranty
• Adds Years of Life to Spa Covers & Equipment
• Reduced Maintenance
• No More Algae Problems
• No More Red Itchy Eyes
• No More Dried Out Skin
• Simple to Install & Operate
• Weatherproofed for Outdoor Installation
How Do Ionizers Work?
Ionizers use a natural water purification process called electrolysis. It starts with an ultra-low voltage charge running through a sacrificial mineral electrode installed in the return line.
This direct current causes the release of copper and zinc ions into the flow of water which aids in the destruction of algae, bacteria, viruses and mold.
To maintain clean, clear, safe and healthy water all you need to do is add a small amount of chlorine or non chlorine shock to your hot tub after each use to kill any organic material in your hot tub.
Why try to relax in a tub full of harsh expensive chemicals when a soothing hot spring-like hot tub experience is just an Ionizer away!
What’s So Different About Our Hot Tub Ionizer?
Our electrodes are custom made from a copper and zinc alloy specifically designed for water treatment. They are four times larger than most spa ionizers, so our electrodes last longer and the replacement electrodes are a better value.
What About Passive Cartridge Ionizers like Nature 2?
You should not use cartridge ionizers. Not only are they very expensive and need to be replaced every few months, you also have little or no control as to the amount of ionization being produced.
Cartridge Ionizers are sold without test kits so you never know what the ion level is or if it’s safe to reduce the sanitizer level. Hands down, the best and most cost effective method of ionizing a hot tub is with an electronic ionizer.
Please note that all hot tub ionizers are created equally. Beware of copper only ionizers with electrodes and a control box that may look like our Hot Tub Ionizer, but are nothing more than cheap knock-offs made from outdated electronics.
Features of our Hot Tub Ionizer include:
• Treats up to 1,200 Gallons
• Adjustable Output for Precise Metering of Ion Production.
• IP66 Rated Weatherproof Controller Protects Electronics from Moisture, Corrosion, and Harsh Environments.
• High Efficiency UL, CSA, and CE listed Auto Ranging (120 or 240 volt) Switching Power Supply which provides 5 volts DC to the controller (must be wired to the pump timer so it has power only when the pump is running.)
• Solid State Electronic Circuitry with Automatic Sequential Polarity Switching to keep Electrodes Clean and Even Wearing.
• Light Emitting Diodes Display Power, Cell Power, and Polarity.
• Has Threaded Electrode Cell with a 2″ Tee Fitting, Sealed Electrical Connections so there are No Corrosion Problems, and 1-1/2″ Reducing Bushings if Needed.
• Lifetime Warranty.
• INPUT VOLTAGE: 120 or 240 Volts AC.
• INPUT FREQUENCY: 50 to 60 Hertz
• OUTPUT VOLTAGE: 5 VoltsDC
• OUTPUT CURRENT: 2 Amps. Max
• CONTROLLER: Plastic Weather Proof
• FLOW RATE: 10 To 120 GPM
• CELL: 2″ Tee with Extention and 2″Threaded Fitting
• CELL REPLACEMENT: 2″ Threaded Male Fitting
• ELECTRODE SIZE AND TYPE: 1-1/2″ Half Round x 2-1/2″ LONG – COPPER & ZINC
• ELECTRODE WEIGHT: 1.5 LB
• TYPICAL ELECTRODE LIFE: 8 To 20 Years
• CAPACITY: UP TO 1,200 Gallons
Hot Tub Ionizer Operation
1. Turn on the Hot Tub pump.
2. Test the Hot Tub water and make sure the water is properly balanced and sanitized. Test the water with the copper test kit to see if there is copper already present. If copper is already present it may be from a copper based algaecide or from a previous pH problem.
3. Turn the controller output to MAX. The power light and the cell power light should come on. The cell power light will change color from red to green every few minutes to indicate the cleaning circuit is operating properly. Turning the control down towards MIN decreases the voltage and current to the cell. The Cell Power light will dim slightly as the control is turned down.
4. Now you can stop using heavy sanitizer levels! All you need to do is maintain a constant chlorine level as low as 0.2 pp. It has been proven that maintaining 0.2 ppm chlorine and 0.2 ppm copper is more effective sanitation than using just chlorine at 2.0 ppm.
5. Test the copper level at least once a week until you have found the proper setting for your spa. Now you should only need to test the copper level once or twice a month because the copper level does not dissipate like sanitizers.
6. Do not over ionize your spa. When the level reaches 0.3 ppm turn the control down and adjust as necessary to maintain 0.3 ppm. If the copper level reaches 0.5 ppm turn the ionizer to MIN until the level drops to 0.3 ppm. Maintain the pH at 7.2 to 7.6. Failure to maintain your pH could result in staining if the pH is allowed to drift above 8.0.
Hot Tub Ionizer Installation
1. Before installing the Ionizer the Hot Tub should be clean, pH balanced, sanitized and the filter cleaned.
2. Turn off the power to the spa equipment.
3. Install the cell after the hot tub heater if possible. The electrode cell must be at the bottom or side so that no air will be trapped in the cell. Cut a section of pipe out where the electrode cell will be installed. Glue the TEE in place using PVC glue making sure it is oriented so no air will be trapped in the cell.
4. Mount the Controller on a vertical surface at least 5 ft from the Hot Tub. Fasten with the 4 #6 x 3/4′ screws provided, so that the cord to the cell and the power cord will reach. It is best to install the controller where it is protected from the sun and weather.
5. Wire the ionizer controller into the same circuit as the low speed of the pump (some spa controllers have a circuit designated for “ozone”, which can also be used). If connected to 120 volts the brown wire is the hot wire, the blue wire is the neutral wire, and the green wire is the ground. If connected to 240 volts the brown and blue are the hot wires and the green is the ground. The ionizer controller automatically adjusts to the incoming voltage.
The comparison chart below breaks down the features and benefits of Ozone versus UV technology for hot tub and spa water sanitation and purification.
The upfront cost is about the same for Ozone and UV, but the minimal maintenance and reduced chemical requirements of an ozone system create significant benefits. On the other hand, UV lamps must be replaced every 3 to 12 months and must be figured into the maintenance costs for these systems.
What is Ozone?
• Ozone is “active oxygen”, nature’s special element. Each ozone molecule consists of three oxygen atoms.
• Ozone is a natural purifier.
• Ozone is created in nature by the combination of oxygen in air and the ultraviolet rays of the sun or by the corona discharge during a lightning storm.
• Ozone has a clean, fresh scent noticed after a rainstorm.
• Ozone is the most powerful oxidizer safely used.
• Ozone is the alternative water purifier to traditional chemicals such as chlorine and bromine.
What Does Ozone Do?
• The Ozone layer in the atmosphere protects the earth from deadly radiation.
• Ozone destroys bacteria, viruses, mold and mildew.
• Ozone eliminates spores, cysts, yeast and fungus.
• Ozone oxidizes iron, sulfur, manganese and hydrogen sulfate.
• Ozone eliminates oils and other contaminants in water.
• Ozone eliminates odors in air, such as smoke.
• Ozone keeps water clean and sparkling clear.
• Ozone keeps water fresh.
Ozone is Healthy
• Ozone leaves no chemical by-products in water.
• Ozone leaves no chemical taste or smell.
• Ozone will not burn eyes or make them red or irritated. Ozone will not irritate or dry out skin, nose, or ears.
• Ozone will not leave a chemical film on material or skin.
• Ozone will not discolor or damage hair or clothing.
• Ozone adds no contaminants or by-products to water. Ozone rids water and air of unhealthy microorganisms.
• Ozone is NOT a carcinogen.
Where is Ozone Used?
• Nice, France built the first water purification plant to use ozone in 1906
• Los Angeles has the largest ozone drinking water treatment plant in the world.
• Most bottled water is purified by ozone.
• Ozone is used to clean waste water and toxic waste.
• Ozone purifies water in wells and home drinking water systems.
• Ozone systems have brought life back to “dead” contaminated lakes and pools.
• Ozone is used to purify air in hotel rooms, boats, RVs, cars and smoke/fire damaged structures.
• Ozone is used in thousands of residential and commercial pools, hot tubs and spas all over the world.
How is Ozone Made?
Ozone Is Safe for the Environment as well as Spa & Pool Equipment
• Ozone will not explode.
• Ozone is not a fire hazard.
• In the dose required for excellent purification, ozone does not produce harmful fumes.
• Ozone will not damage plumbing fittings or pipes.
Ozone Is Convenient for Hot Tubs, Spas & Pools
• Ozone does not have to be purchased or stored. Ozone is generated “on site” and is introduced into the water or air automatically.
• Ozone does not affect the pH balance of water, thus minimizing pH adjustments.
• Ozone helps reduce total dissolved solids in water so that the water does not have to be changed as often.
• Ozone eliminates much of the routine maintenance because it does such an effective job keeping the water clean.
Information About Chloramines
When any type of chlorine is added to water, it usually forms hypochlorous acid (HOCl), the most powerful killing form of chlorine in water, and hypochlorite ion (OCl-), a relatively weak form of chlorine in water.
The percentage of HOCl and OCl- is determined by the pH of the water. As the pH goes up, less of the chlorine is in the killing form and more of the chlorine is in the weaker form. The total of HOCl and OCl- is the free available chlorine.
Chlorine can combine with ammonia and nitrogen compounds in the water to form chloramines, sometimes called combined chlorine. By combining with ammonia and nitrogen, free chlorine in the water is disabled.
Chloramines are 60 to 80 times less effective than free chlorine. Chloramines are formed any time ammonia and nitrogen are in the water. Some of the ammonia and nitrogen compounds are introduced into the water by swimmers and bathers in the form of perspiration, urine, saliva, sputum and fecal matter.
An active swimmer sweats one pint per hour. The average person sweats three pints per hour in a heated spa. Ammonia and nitrogen compounds are also introduced into the water by rain. Each drop of rain has some dissolved nitrogen from our atmosphere and from automobile emissions.
Chloramines smell bad. This is the smell most often associated with pools and spas in health clubs and YMCAs. Chloramines are eye and skin irritants, and they cloud the water.
Chloramines can be removed from the water by the following three methods:
1. Chlorine Shock Treatment or Super-Chlorination: By adding a mega-dose of chlorine. Usually 3 to 6 times more chlorine than a normal dose is added to the water, or the level of chlorine is raised to 5 to 10 ppm and held there for 4 hours.
This is called super chlorination. To remove chloramines, the ratio of chlorine to ammonia must be at least 7.6 to 1. If this ratio is not obtained, then more chloramines will be produced. Swimmers and bathers should not enter the water until the level of chlorine has dropped to 3 ppm or less.
2. Non-Chlorine Shock Treatment: By adding a non-chlorine shock to the water. The most common chemical used for this is potassium peroxymonosulfate.
3. Adding Ozone to the Water: If an ozone generator is installed on a pool or spa, then oxidation of the ammonia and nitrogen compounds will take place whenever the ozone system is operating. The longer the system operates, the more the ozone can destroy the ammonia and nitrogen.
Ozone oxidizes soap, deodorant, hair spray, cologne, makeup, perfume, body lotion, hand cream, sun tan lotion, saliva and urine. In addition, ozone kills all pathogenic bacteria, germs and viruses.
Ozone takes care of the big job of oxidizing all these organic contaminants. Ozone frees up the combined chlorine, thus leaving the chlorine free to provide a residual. Ozone ultimately enhances the performance of chlorine and bromine.
Less chlorine or bromine will be needed to maintain a residual. Commonly, ozone reduces chlorine or bromine use by 60-90 percent. The quality of water will be dramatically better with the combination of ozone and chlorine or the combination of ozone and bromine than with chlorine or bromine alone.